The food guide
Eat like you were born here
Every place here was eaten at first and written about second. Ratings are ours, opinions are strong, appetites are assumed.
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The four essentials
Naan QaliaOld city, lunchtime
The city's signature: tandoor naan with a slow-cooked, gently fiery mutton curry.
Tara PanTara Pan Centre & rivals
A dessert paan so famous people drive from other districts for it.
Hurda Party BhelSeasonal, ask a local
Tender roasted jowar tossed with lime and masala — a winter-field ritual turned snack.
Sitaphal RabdiMithai shops, Sept–Dec
Custard-apple cream from the orchards around the city. Autumn's best argument.