The food guide
Eat like you were born here
Every place here was eaten at first and written about second. Ratings are ours, opinions are strong, appetites are assumed.
Before anything else
The four essentials
Naan QaliaOld city, lunchtime
The city's signature: tandoor naan with a slow-cooked, gently fiery mutton curry.
Tara PanTara Pan Centre & rivals
A dessert paan so famous people drive from other districts for it.
Hurda Party BhelSeasonal, ask a local
Tender roasted jowar tossed with lime and masala — a winter-field ritual turned snack.
Sitaphal RabdiMithai shops, Sept–Dec
Custard-apple cream from the orchards around the city. Autumn's best argument.